Arduino camera point and shoot Pc#
Most any hot shoe with the "standard" PC Sync connector (example here) will do the same. That connector externalizes the center contact and the shoe mount-when shorted, the connection will operate the flash. More importantly, this hot shoe has a convenient 3.5 mm socket where you usually see the common PC Sync connector. I used the one pictured above (available here), which contains multiple shoes. The external flash unit connects to a hot shoe, which is a somewhat standardized “socket” for a flash unit. If you have a unit with variable flash power that can be configured externally (the PL-ASF18 does not have that capability), you may be able to accomplish the same effect by reducing the power. Additionally, I used a light diffuser (a white nylon sheet tent) for some shots. For the shots in this article, I did not point the flash unit directly at the target rather, the flash was pointed directly away from the target, and the light reached the target by reflecting off a piece of black cardboard. You will likely need to bounce the flash to the target rather than aim it directly at the target. The PL-ASF18 is quite strong for close-up work, yet it operates from two 1.5 V AA batteries. (Other triggering standards use higher voltages.) For the circuit that follows, it is critical that you use an external flash that accepts a low-voltage flash trigger. One particular advantage is that it can be triggered with a relatively low voltage (<6 V). This is one of the lowest-priced slave flash units around and it works quite well. I used a Polaroid PL-ASF18 slave flash unit, pictured above. We want the Arduino to trigger the flash, so we need an external flash unit. As with any close-up photography, you need a lens that can focus at the desired distance.
Arduino camera point and shoot manual#
Any camera with a manual focus and the ability to set long exposures should work. This is a relatively low-end (and, now, relatively old) digital SLR (single lens reflex) camera. The camera that I used for this project is a Canon EOS 400D (Digital Rebel XTi). Here, we will use two sensors, a force-sensing resistor and a sound sensor, to detect the external event of interest. Almost any external sensor can be used as the trigger event for the flash.
In this project, we will use an Arduino Uno to fire an external flash when a specific external event is sensed. The key is to control the firing of the flash. The complete FSR interface circuit on a breadboard with an Arduino Uno During the long exposure period, however, the flash will fire and provide the only illumination during the exposure. Ordinarily, these conditions will produce a totally black picture. Then, set your camera exposure to a relatively long value, say 4-6 seconds, and in complete or nearly complete darkness, take a picture. The “secret” to this technique is simple.
High-speed cameras, however, are expensive and beyond the reach of many of us. The photographic capture of what normally goes unseen, or at least unnoticed, is intriguing and oftentimes beautiful. I have always been impressed by high-speed photography. Freeze moments in time to easily produce extraordinary close-up pictures with your digital camera, an Arduino, and these simple circuits.
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